60yr old house in the UK, we have one breaker per socket circuit for example. It uses 2.5mm wire which can handle 30A, so that would be the max recommended fuse rating at the breaker. That way it’s still protected if there is a break in the circuit anywhere.
We also have a separate lighting circuit with 1.5mm wire and a lower breaker fuse rating.
It can lead to some annoying fuckery though. I recently updated a ceiling light and was frustrated at why it wouldn’t switch on after triple checking every connection. Had to get out a multimeter and investigate all over the house. Turns out at some point in the past a previous homeowner had not bothered to connect the neutral wire back to the fusebox at an entirely different ceiling light, leaving the neutral floating. It was sitting at 110V rather than zero. Somehow it was OK to do that with old lights.
60yr old house in the UK, we have one breaker per socket circuit for example. It uses 2.5mm wire which can handle 30A, so that would be the max recommended fuse rating at the breaker. That way it’s still protected if there is a break in the circuit anywhere.
We also have a separate lighting circuit with 1.5mm wire and a lower breaker fuse rating.
It can lead to some annoying fuckery though. I recently updated a ceiling light and was frustrated at why it wouldn’t switch on after triple checking every connection. Had to get out a multimeter and investigate all over the house. Turns out at some point in the past a previous homeowner had not bothered to connect the neutral wire back to the fusebox at an entirely different ceiling light, leaving the neutral floating. It was sitting at 110V rather than zero. Somehow it was OK to do that with old lights.